Women’s Images of the Kharkiv Region in the Early Twentieth Century: Visual Aspect of Ukrainian Identity

Abstract

The article explores women’s images of the Kharkiv region in the early twentieth century focusing on the visual dimension of Ukrainian identity. Women’s clothing of this period was marked by an eclectic fusion of folk traditions with fashionable elements of European costume. This synthesis reflected the search for their own style forms, taking into account new materials, technical means, social needs and tastes of the time. Ethnic costume also functioned as a symbolic expression of national identity. Thus, on the one hand, the classic components of folk costume, which included a headdress, embroidered shirt, kersetka, skirt with an apron, sash and beads, and on the other hand, they were combined with European stylistic elements, creating a distinctive local appearance. It is highlighted that, firstly, the use of Ukrainian ethnic dress was more typical for rural areas, where Ukrainian traditions were preserved for a long time, and secondly, in cities, Ukrainian clothes were used as ceremonial or festive in private life, at family celebrations, during visits to churches, weddings, christenings, funeral ceremonies, etc.; and third, Ukrainian ethnic dress united the Ukrainian intelligentsia and the peasantry, as well as European and Ukrainian socio-cultural codes. It has been established that the development of industry in Ukraine during the 20th century, particularly in the Kharkiv region, contributed significantly to the diversification and improvement of soft textile manufacturing. This industrial growth led to the production of a broader assortment of high-quality fabrics, which, in turn, influenced various aspects of traditional clothing. Specifically, the features of garment construction became more complex and varied; sewing technologies improved; and new styles of women’s costumes, silhouettes, and decorative elements emerged. Factory-made textiles were increasingly used for skirts and aprons, while a new shoulder garment, the sarafan, came into fashion, often worn with a belt. Short outerwear also diversified, with new items such as kokhty, basky, kholodajky, sachky, pliushky, and coats entering women’s wardrobes. In addition, costume ensembles expanded to include novel ornaments – spiral snail shell pendants, silver chains, and other adornments – that enriched the traditional set of jewelry.